5th July to 19th July   |   222 miles

From Kirk Yetholm on the Scottish Borders, I follow St. Cuthbert’s Way to Melrose and Peebles on the glorious River Tweed, and then head over the Pentland Hills.  I stealthily cross the former industrial heartland of Scotland, using the towpaths of the Union and Forth and Clyde canals to Kirkintilloch. The John Muir Way then takes me on to Strathblane, where a woman in a pub paints the German flag on my forehead during a World Cup football match. The next day, with the flag wearing off, I get going on the West Highland Way.

The remaining few miles of Lowlands takes me to Balmaha at the southern end of Loch Lomond. Here, a major geological fault has thrust up the Highlands and the going gets progressively tougher, but distant mountains beckon the walker.  From the head of the loch, the WHW follows one of General Wade’s 18th century military roads, through magnificent glens to Bridge of Orchy. It then traverses the wild and squelchy wastes of Rannoch Moor to the head of Glencoe. Here the walker will be tempted to stop to take in the spectacular views over to Buachaille Etive Mor, the best-loved of all the Munro peaks that guards the entrance to Glencoe. A steep climb over Wade’s Devil’s Staircase takes me up to the high country above Kinlochleven in preparation for the final run to Fort William. Here I take a short breather to join my mum’s 100th birthday party.