9th June to 4th July   |   256 miles

When it first opened in April 1965, after 30 years of protracted negotiations with landowners, the Pennine Way was Britain’s first long-distance footpath. From Edale the, it climbs up through the Dark Peak’s gritstone country to Kinder Scout and Kinder Downfall. These flat gritty ‘peaks’ then give way to high moor country, fringed by former industrial towns and their now silent, dark satanic mills.

Approaching the Aire Gap at Gargrave, I get a glimpse of the distant limestone fell country of the North Pennines. I am now on familiar home territory and, with less than 700 miles to go, feel I am making progress.

From Gargrave, the Pennine Way climbs up over Fountains Fell and Pen-y-ghent to Britain’s highest pub at Tan Hill. Leaving Yorkshire behind, the Way then cuts over the moors to Teesdale, before crossing over the Pennines to Dufton. Here I pass a trio of nature’s amazing landmarks - High Force, Cauldron Snout and High Cup Nick - all crafted by Nature from the resilient Whin Sill rock formation.  Cross Fell, the highest peak in the Pennines, is followed by the stunning Hadrian’s Wall country, a highlight of the entire walk.  Bidding farewell to Roman Britain, I climb over the Wall and head off into the barbarian lands. A long climb on to the Cheviots is followed by a few miles of straggly border fence where the sheep on both sides are milling around, disputing whether to remain in Scotland, but retaining special cross-Border grazing and tupping rights if they don't.

From my top-of-the world campsite on ancient Clennell Street, gale force winds speed me on my way to Kirk Yetholm for the thirsty Way finisher’s free pint at the Border Hotel.